From the outside, the medina is a long red wall. Step through one of its big wooden gates and suddenly you are in a maze of narrow lanes. Some are too narrow for a car - just wide enough for a donkey carrying baskets. It is easy to get lost, and that is part of the fun.
In the main square, storytellers sit on rugs and tell tales that have been passed down for hundreds of years. People stand in a circle around them, listening, just like children would have done a thousand years ago. Next to them, drummers play and snake handlers blow long pipes called rhaitas.
As the sun goes down, the square completely changes. Food carts roll in. Lanterns light up. Smoke rises from grills cooking lamb, fish, vegetables and sweet pastries. People share long tables and eat together. The square becomes the world's busiest outdoor restaurant.
Tucked into the medina's lanes are the souks - covered marketplaces selling spices in bright pyramids, hand-woven carpets, leather slippers called babouches, ceramic plates and shiny brass lanterns. The whole place smells of mint, cumin, cinnamon and orange blossom.