To make masgouf, a fisherman catches a large carp from the Tigris River. The fish is then split open along the belly and spread flat like a butterfly. It is rubbed with a mixture of olive oil, tamarind (a tangy fruit paste), turmeric, and salt, then propped upright on stakes around an open fire and cooked very slowly for up to four hours.
The slow cooking over the smoky wood fire gives masgouf its unique flavour - crispy and golden on the outside, soft and flaky inside, with a gentle smokiness that is unlike any other way of cooking fish. Families and friends gather around the fire while the fish cooks, chatting and sharing bread.
Restaurants serving masgouf are often built right on the banks of the Tigris River in Baghdad. Diners can sit outside, watching the river go by while their fish is grilled fresh. The smell of wood smoke and spices drifts across the water - it is one of Baghdad's most famous culinary experiences.
Masgouf has been eaten in Iraq for thousands of years. Images of fish and fishing appear on ancient Mesopotamian carvings and clay seals. The same rivers, the same fish, and a very similar cooking style have fed the people of this land for millennia, making masgouf a living link to the ancient past.