The city was built on a high ridge above the Mtkvari River, which made it easy to defend and easy to spot caravans coming from far away. At its peak, Uplistsikhe was a major trading stop on the Silk Road - the great network of trade routes that connected Europe, the Middle East, and China. Merchants, travellers, and ideas all passed through here.
Inside the carved chambers you can see ancient pagan temples, a great hall for ceremonies, a pharmacy (ancient Georgians were skilled healers), and even what appears to be a theatre with rows of carved stone seats. When Christianity arrived in Georgia in the 4th century, some of the pagan temples were converted into churches - you can still see both styles of carving in the same rooms.
A long tunnel runs from inside the city all the way down through the rock to the river below - a secret escape route or water supply. Wandering through it today feels like being inside a mystery novel.
Unlike Vardzia, which was mostly hidden, Uplistsikhe sits right out on a sunny golden hilltop. Lizards bask on the warm carved stones, and from the top you can see the wide river valley stretching in every direction. It is a wonderful place to sit and imagine the thousands of different people who have walked through the very same corridors over three millennia.